Coco Chanel revolutionized haute couture fashion by replacing the traditional corseted silhouette with the comfort of simple suits and long, slender dresses. Chanel frequently incorporated ideas from male fashion into her designs. Chanel's simpler lines of women's couture led to the popular "flat-chested" look of the 1920s. Her clothing was relaxed, unstructured, and changed the way women dressed for outdoor activities. Coco omitted corsets, liberating women and allowing more comfort. Contemporary Fashion states, "She dressed the modern woman in clothes for a lifestyle." Coco is credited for making jersey (a soft elasticated knit used for undergarments) a popular fashion fabric. Her jersey dresses, often in navy and gray, were cut to flatter the figure rather than to emphasize and distort the natural body shape.
Chanel is also known for its quilted fabric and leather which also has a "secret" quilting pattern sewn at the back to keep the material strong. It was inspired by the jackets worn by jockeys. This material is used for clothing and accessories alike.
She had numerous other major successes that changed the fashion industry, including the Chanel suit, composed of a knee-length skirt and trim, boxy jacket, traditionally made of woven wool with black sewing trim and gold buttons, worn with large costume-pearl necklaces. After the success of her perfume, Chanel No. 5, Coco Chanel's fashions became well-known and were purchased by the high flyers of London and Paris society alike. The financial gain from the fragrance also helped her company during difficult years.
2011年10月28日星期五
Alain revamped Chanel No.5
Chanel returned to Paris in 1953 to find the Paris fashion scene obsessed with Christian Dior and the very feminine look for which he alone is given credit, the "New Look." Coco Chanel responded brilliantly to the challenge; she recognized that the couture market had changed and she needed to catch-up. Becoming competitive again would necessarily come at a great price; Chanel needed to be a significant presence in: haute couture, pret-a-porter, costume jewelry and fragrance. Coco swallowed her pride and re-approached Pierre for business advice and financial backing. In return, he negotiated for himself complete rights to all products bearing the brand: "Chanel." But their re-kindled collaboration paid off handsomely as Chanel, with her unerring sense of style, once again became the single, most prestigious label in all of fashion. Importantly for the brand and starting in 1953, Coco collaborated with jeweler Robert Goossens to design a line of Chanel jewelry which exquisitely complimented her iconic fashion designs. For example, she paired her re-launched signature "Chanel Suit" (consisting of a knitted wool cardigan with a matching skirt) with long strings of black and white pearls, setting off the suit wonderfully while at the same time adding to it a degree of femininity, thus lightening a sometimes severe look."
She also introduced the Chanel gold or metallic chain-strapped and quilted leather handbags in February 1955. The launch date for this line, 2/55, thus became the internal "appellation" for the quilted bag line. It is still known throughout the world as the "2/55" bag and it, just like the "Chanel Suit" has never really ever fallen out of fashion. Throughout the fifties, her taste continued its unerring path to success, even as she turned to new areas of conquest. Her first venture into men's fragrance became yet another enduring success, Chanel's eau de toilette for men, Pour Monsieur (which has also been marketed under the name: "A Gentleman's Cologne") became, endured and remains even today the number one selling men's fragrance. Chanel and her spring collection received the Fashion Oscar at the 1957 Fashion Awards in Dallas. Pierre Wertheimer bought Bader's 20% share of the perfume business, giving his family 90%. Pierre's son Jacques Wertheimer took his father's place in 1965. Coco's attorney Chambrun called the now-gone-relationship as "one based on a businessman's passion, despite her misplaced feelings of exploitation." He told Forbes, "Pierre returned to Paris full of pride and excitement [after one of his horses won the 1956 English Derby]. He rushed to Coco, expecting congratulations and praise. But she refused to kiss him. She resented him, you see, all her life."
Gabrielle "Coco" Chanel died on 10 January 1971 at the age of 87. She was still "designing, still working" at the time of her death. For example, she designed the uniforms for Olympic Airways flight attendants (1966–1969), followed by Pierre Cardin. Olympic Airways was then one of the most luxurious air carriers, owned by the Greek shipping-magnate Aristotle Onassis. After her death, leadership of the company was handed down to Yvonne Dudel, Jean Cazaubon and Philippe Guibourge.After a period of time, Jacques Wertheimer bought the entire House of Chanel. Critics stated that during his leadership, he never paid much attention to the company, as he was more interested in horse breeding. In 1974, the House of Chanel launched Cristalle eau de toilette, which was designed when Coco Chanel was alive. 1978 saw the launch of the first non-couture, prêt-à-porter line and worldwide distribution of accessories.
Alain Wertheimer, Jacques's son, took over in 1974. Back in the U.S., Chanel No.5 was seen as a passe perfume. Alain revamped Chanel No.5 sales by reducing the number of outlets carrying the fragrance from 18,000 to 12,000. He removed the perfume from drugstore shelves, and invested millions of dollars in advertisement for Chanel cosmetics. This ensured a greater sense of scarcity and exclusivity for No.5, and sales rocketed back up as demand for the fragrance increased. He also used many famous people to endorse the perfume—from Marilyn Monroe to Audrey Tautou. Looking for a designer who could bring the label to new heights, he persuaded Karl Lagerfeld to end his contract with fashion house Chloé.
She also introduced the Chanel gold or metallic chain-strapped and quilted leather handbags in February 1955. The launch date for this line, 2/55, thus became the internal "appellation" for the quilted bag line. It is still known throughout the world as the "2/55" bag and it, just like the "Chanel Suit" has never really ever fallen out of fashion. Throughout the fifties, her taste continued its unerring path to success, even as she turned to new areas of conquest. Her first venture into men's fragrance became yet another enduring success, Chanel's eau de toilette for men, Pour Monsieur (which has also been marketed under the name: "A Gentleman's Cologne") became, endured and remains even today the number one selling men's fragrance. Chanel and her spring collection received the Fashion Oscar at the 1957 Fashion Awards in Dallas. Pierre Wertheimer bought Bader's 20% share of the perfume business, giving his family 90%. Pierre's son Jacques Wertheimer took his father's place in 1965. Coco's attorney Chambrun called the now-gone-relationship as "one based on a businessman's passion, despite her misplaced feelings of exploitation." He told Forbes, "Pierre returned to Paris full of pride and excitement [after one of his horses won the 1956 English Derby]. He rushed to Coco, expecting congratulations and praise. But she refused to kiss him. She resented him, you see, all her life."
Gabrielle "Coco" Chanel died on 10 January 1971 at the age of 87. She was still "designing, still working" at the time of her death. For example, she designed the uniforms for Olympic Airways flight attendants (1966–1969), followed by Pierre Cardin. Olympic Airways was then one of the most luxurious air carriers, owned by the Greek shipping-magnate Aristotle Onassis. After her death, leadership of the company was handed down to Yvonne Dudel, Jean Cazaubon and Philippe Guibourge.After a period of time, Jacques Wertheimer bought the entire House of Chanel. Critics stated that during his leadership, he never paid much attention to the company, as he was more interested in horse breeding. In 1974, the House of Chanel launched Cristalle eau de toilette, which was designed when Coco Chanel was alive. 1978 saw the launch of the first non-couture, prêt-à-porter line and worldwide distribution of accessories.
Alain Wertheimer, Jacques's son, took over in 1974. Back in the U.S., Chanel No.5 was seen as a passe perfume. Alain revamped Chanel No.5 sales by reducing the number of outlets carrying the fragrance from 18,000 to 12,000. He removed the perfume from drugstore shelves, and invested millions of dollars in advertisement for Chanel cosmetics. This ensured a greater sense of scarcity and exclusivity for No.5, and sales rocketed back up as demand for the fragrance increased. He also used many famous people to endorse the perfume—from Marilyn Monroe to Audrey Tautou. Looking for a designer who could bring the label to new heights, he persuaded Karl Lagerfeld to end his contract with fashion house Chloé.
2011年10月27日星期四
Saturday with a two-over 74 in the third round
LA JOLLA, California - Tiger Woods' bid to end his 14-month victory drought on a Torrey Pines course he has long dominated dwindled on Saturday with a two-over 74 in the third round of the US PGA Farmers Insurance Open.
Woods struggled with his re-tooled golf swing all day on the Torrey Pines South Course, the same track where he defied a badly damaged knee to beat Rocco Mediate in a US Open playoff in 2008.
That triumph followed a run of four straight US PGA Tour titles at the seaside course from 2005-2008 and took his total of professional victories here to seven.
He missed the past two US tour tournaments here - in 2009 as he recovered from knee surgery and last year amid the fallout from revelations of his marital infidelity.
But a return to Torrey - where his only prior over-par round in the US tour event was back in 2002 - seemed just what Woods needed as he sought to put his horrendous 2010 season behind him.
Instead, Woods' erratic effort left him eight shots behind third-round leaders Phil Mickelson and Bill Haas.
"I didn't swing the club very well at all," Woods said. "Didn't feel comfortable until 16. By then it was too late and the damage had already been done."
After finding the fairway at the second hole, Woods hit his approach into a greenside bunker en route to a bogey.
He followed with a three-putt bogey at the par-three third and at the fifth was in the rough off the tee and, from an awkward stance in a fairway bunker, hit into another bunker en route to a bogey.
He managed to birdie the front nine's two par-fives, but gave back a shot at 15.
Woods said the swing changes he implemented last year with coach Sean Foley have yet to stand up under the pressures of tournament play, but he made it clear he believes he is on the right path and determined to add to his tally of 14 major championships.
"I know what I can do," Woods said. "I know what I'm capable of hitting, the shots I'm capable of hitting, and I just need to keep improving and keep working."
Woods' timetable for improving is clearly based not on the gap since his last victory, at the Australian Masters in November of 2009, but on the first major championship of 2011.
"Augusta," Woods said, targeting the Masters for time when his game needs to be in shape.
"I need it in June, I need it in July and I need one (week) in August," said Woods - a nod to the dates for the US Open, British Open and PGA Championship.
"You want to peak," Woods said. "That is the whole idea. I've always tried to peak four times a year. I've been successful at it 14 times in my career."
Woods struggled with his re-tooled golf swing all day on the Torrey Pines South Course, the same track where he defied a badly damaged knee to beat Rocco Mediate in a US Open playoff in 2008.
That triumph followed a run of four straight US PGA Tour titles at the seaside course from 2005-2008 and took his total of professional victories here to seven.
He missed the past two US tour tournaments here - in 2009 as he recovered from knee surgery and last year amid the fallout from revelations of his marital infidelity.
But a return to Torrey - where his only prior over-par round in the US tour event was back in 2002 - seemed just what Woods needed as he sought to put his horrendous 2010 season behind him.
Instead, Woods' erratic effort left him eight shots behind third-round leaders Phil Mickelson and Bill Haas.
"I didn't swing the club very well at all," Woods said. "Didn't feel comfortable until 16. By then it was too late and the damage had already been done."
After finding the fairway at the second hole, Woods hit his approach into a greenside bunker en route to a bogey.
He followed with a three-putt bogey at the par-three third and at the fifth was in the rough off the tee and, from an awkward stance in a fairway bunker, hit into another bunker en route to a bogey.
He managed to birdie the front nine's two par-fives, but gave back a shot at 15.
Woods said the swing changes he implemented last year with coach Sean Foley have yet to stand up under the pressures of tournament play, but he made it clear he believes he is on the right path and determined to add to his tally of 14 major championships.
"I know what I can do," Woods said. "I know what I'm capable of hitting, the shots I'm capable of hitting, and I just need to keep improving and keep working."
Woods' timetable for improving is clearly based not on the gap since his last victory, at the Australian Masters in November of 2009, but on the first major championship of 2011.
"Augusta," Woods said, targeting the Masters for time when his game needs to be in shape.
"I need it in June, I need it in July and I need one (week) in August," said Woods - a nod to the dates for the US Open, British Open and PGA Championship.
"You want to peak," Woods said. "That is the whole idea. I've always tried to peak four times a year. I've been successful at it 14 times in my career."
2011年10月24日星期一
Yao Ming agent
SHANGHAI - Former Houston Rockets center Yao Ming will study in the prestigious Shanghai Jiaotong University from October, his agent Zhang Mingji said here on Monday.
Zhang said that Yao has not decided his major but the university will choose special teachers and give the super star lessons on a one-to-one basis.
Yao, who announced to retire from basketball on July 20, said earlier that he had been considering going back to school this fall but did not reveal which school he will choose.
"He is sure to go to Shanghai Jiaotong University in October," Zhang said. "But he has not made up his mind which major he will choose."
Reports said earlier that Yao will major in financial management but Zhang said those are just "speculations."
"Yao has always been learning after retirement," Zhang said. "He has never stopped learning."
Zhang said Yao has thought about having lessons with ordinary students, but this possibility was ruled out because he is worried that his appearance will affect other students.
Zhang added that Yao, like each student in the university, will receive his degree after getting credit and passing necessary examinations.
http://mycheapshoes.com/
Zhang said that Yao has not decided his major but the university will choose special teachers and give the super star lessons on a one-to-one basis.
Yao, who announced to retire from basketball on July 20, said earlier that he had been considering going back to school this fall but did not reveal which school he will choose.
"He is sure to go to Shanghai Jiaotong University in October," Zhang said. "But he has not made up his mind which major he will choose."
Reports said earlier that Yao will major in financial management but Zhang said those are just "speculations."
"Yao has always been learning after retirement," Zhang said. "He has never stopped learning."
Zhang said Yao has thought about having lessons with ordinary students, but this possibility was ruled out because he is worried that his appearance will affect other students.
Zhang added that Yao, like each student in the university, will receive his degree after getting credit and passing necessary examinations.
http://mycheapshoes.com/
Football 5
DUBAI - United Arab Emirates midfielder Theyab Awana, who became a Youtube celebrity after scoring a back-heeled penalty in an international against Lebanon, was killed in a car crash on Sunday, the country's football association said on Monday.
Awana, 21, died following an accident in the UAE capital Abu Dhabi.
The national team had been preparing for a trip to Asia next month when news of Awana's death broke.
"The whole team went today to the funeral, it was very sad," UAE team administrator Ahmed Saeed told reporters.
"Everybody was shocked. His whole family was so proud of him. We will never forget him."
Awana converted an audacious penalty in a 6-2 friendly win over Lebanon in July and the clip received more than 1.2 million hits on Youtube.
However, his coach Srecko Katanec did not see the funny side, substituting the player immediately after he scored and leaving him out of the lineup for the next match.
Awana played for the UAE in Wednesday's 0-0 draw against Australia in an Olympic qualifier but suffered an injury and was due to have treatment on his injury this week.
"Awana was very honest, keen and committed to his duties. It's a great loss for us, it is very painful news" Khalfan Al Rumaithi, president of the UAE FA, told the association's website.
Zhang Jilong, acting president of the Asian Football Confederation, also paid tribute to the player.
"On behalf of AFC and the Asian football family, I would like to offer my sincere condolences to the UAE football community, family and friends of Awana," Jilong told the AFC website.
"His demise at such a young age is a great loss to Asian and UAE football in particular."
The UAE squad's training was cancelled on Monday but they will resume on Tuesday ahead of a friendly against China next week and a World Cup qualifier against South Korea on Oct 11.
http://www.nicehoo.com/
Awana, 21, died following an accident in the UAE capital Abu Dhabi.
The national team had been preparing for a trip to Asia next month when news of Awana's death broke.
"The whole team went today to the funeral, it was very sad," UAE team administrator Ahmed Saeed told reporters.
"Everybody was shocked. His whole family was so proud of him. We will never forget him."
Awana converted an audacious penalty in a 6-2 friendly win over Lebanon in July and the clip received more than 1.2 million hits on Youtube.
However, his coach Srecko Katanec did not see the funny side, substituting the player immediately after he scored and leaving him out of the lineup for the next match.
Awana played for the UAE in Wednesday's 0-0 draw against Australia in an Olympic qualifier but suffered an injury and was due to have treatment on his injury this week.
"Awana was very honest, keen and committed to his duties. It's a great loss for us, it is very painful news" Khalfan Al Rumaithi, president of the UAE FA, told the association's website.
Zhang Jilong, acting president of the Asian Football Confederation, also paid tribute to the player.
"On behalf of AFC and the Asian football family, I would like to offer my sincere condolences to the UAE football community, family and friends of Awana," Jilong told the AFC website.
"His demise at such a young age is a great loss to Asian and UAE football in particular."
The UAE squad's training was cancelled on Monday but they will resume on Tuesday ahead of a friendly against China next week and a World Cup qualifier against South Korea on Oct 11.
http://www.nicehoo.com/
订阅：
评论 (Atom)